Traditional moules-frites: Belgian mussels in white wine with twice-fried chips

Mussels with fries are Belgium on a plate. The mussels come from Zeeland, in the south of the Netherlands, where they have been farmed on poles in the North Sea since the 19th century; the fries, Belgians swear, were born in the Meuse valley, when the river froze and locals fried potato strips instead of small fish. Together, they became the dish of every brasserie in the country, served in black enameled pots that go straight to the table.

The classic version, à la marinière, steams the mussels in their own vapor with white wine, onion, celery and parsley. No cream, which is the à la crème variant, no beer, which is another. In five minutes the shells open and the broth that forms at the bottom is so good you drink it by the spoonful or dip bread in it.

Belgian fries follow a rule: thick batons, floury potatoes, two fryings, traditionally in beef fat, and mayonnaise on the side. Ketchup is tolerated, but it is not the custom.

Recipe card

• Origin: Belgium
• Category: Main course, seafood
• Difficulty: Easy
• Preparation time: 30 minutes
• Cooking time: 30 minutes
• Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients — mussels

• 2 kg fresh mussels in the shell
• 50 g butter
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 3 celery stalks in thin slices
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 300 ml dry white wine
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 sprig thyme
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• Black pepper to taste

Ingredients — fries

• 1 kg floury potatoes (russet or similar) in 1 cm batons
• Oil or beef fat for deep frying
• Salt to taste
• Mayonnaise to serve

Method

1. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water, drain and dry very well with a cloth.
2. Fry in batches at 150 °C (300 °F) for 6 to 7 minutes, until soft and pale. Drain and rest for at least 15 minutes.
3. Wash the mussels in cold water, scrubbing the shells. Pull off and remove the beard (the threads coming out of the shell). Discard any that are broken or that stay open after a tap.
4. In a large pot with a lid, melt the butter and sauté the onion, celery and garlic over medium heat for 5 minutes, without browning.
5. Add the wine, bay leaf and thyme and let it boil for 2 minutes.
6. Add the mussels, cover, raise the heat and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice, until all the shells open.
7. Meanwhile, fry the potatoes a second time at 180 °C (355 °F) for 3 minutes, until golden. Drain and salt.
8. Sprinkle the parsley and pepper over the mussels, toss and bring the pot to the table with the fries and mayonnaise. Discard any mussels that did not open.

Tips and variations

• Mussels must be alive until cooking: buy them the same day and keep in the fridge in an open bowl, never in fresh water or a sealed bag.
• À la crème: add 150 ml of cream to the broth at the end.
• À la bière: replace the wine with a Belgian wheat beer.
• An empty shell works as tongs to pick out the other mussels, as Belgians do.
• The leftover broth becomes the base for a soup or a seafood risotto.
• Beef fat (tallow) in the fries is the authentic taste of Belgian frites; neutral oil is the practical alternative.
• Serve with a light Belgian beer or the same white wine used for cooking.

A pot full of open mussels, a cone of fries and mayonnaise: that is how Brussels has dinner. Simple, quick and better with your hands.