Traditional kokoda: the Fijian ceviche of raw fish marinated in lime and coconut milk

Kokoda, pronounced kokonda, is the dish Fiji serves to those who arrive: reef fish, limes from the backyard and the milk squeezed from freshly grated coconut, the three ingredients the island has in abundance. It is a cousin of Peruvian ceviche and Tahitian poisson cru, and what sets it apart is the coconut milk, which softens the acidity and makes the dish creamy.

The fish, mahi-mahi, snapper or walu, the Pacific king mackerel, is cut into cubes and marinated in lime juice for a few hours, until opaque, cooked by the acid. Part of the lime is drained off and in goes the coconut milk, with tomato, onion, bell pepper and a chopped chili. It is served well chilled, in a coconut shell, as a starter or a light meal on a hot day.

Like every raw fish dish, it depends on very fresh fish kept cold from start to finish. Fresh coconut milk is ideal; good-quality canned, unsweetened, works very well. With that, kokoda is ready in minutes of work and a few hours in the fridge.

Recipe card

• Origin: Fiji
• Category: Starter or light dish, marinated raw fish
• Difficulty: Easy, requires very fresh fish
• Preparation time: 30 minutes (plus 2 to 4 hours of marinating)
• Cooking time: no cooking
• Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 500 g very fresh firm white fish fillet (mahi-mahi, snapper, sea bass, mackerel) in 2 cm cubes
• Juice of 6 to 8 limes (about 3/4 cup)
• 1 cup thick coconut milk
• 2 seeded tomatoes, finely diced
• 1/2 red onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 fresh red chili, seeded and chopped
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Black pepper to taste
• Coconut shells or lettuce leaves to serve
• Lime wedges

Method

1. Put the fish cubes in a glass bowl, season with the salt and cover with the lime juice. Mix, cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours, stirring once, until the fish is white and opaque to the center.
2. Drain two thirds of the lime juice, leaving the rest to keep the acidity.
3. Add the coconut milk, tomato, onion, bell pepper, chili and cilantro and mix gently.
4. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper and lime.
5. Return to the fridge for 30 minutes to chill well.
6. Serve in coconut shells or on leaves, with lime wedges.

Tips and variations

• Industrially frozen fish works if thawed in the fridge and well dried; never use fish of doubtful origin raw.
• Fresh coconut milk: blend 1 grated coconut with 1 cup warm water and squeeze through a cloth.
• Less marinating time gives a rawer center, in the style of Tahitian poisson cru.
• Diced cucumber is a common refreshing addition.
• Do not keep overnight: the lime keeps curing and the fish toughens.
• Serve with boiled cassava or roasted breadfruit, as in Fiji, for a meal.
• A little grated ginger is the Indo-Fijian version.

Kokoda is the chilled Pacific in a coconut shell: fish cured in lime, coconut milk and the crunch of bell pepper. The perfect starter for a hot day, and Fiji from the first spoonful.