Traditional luwombo: the Ugandan chicken and peanut stew steamed inside a banana leaf

Luwombo was created at the end of the 19th century by the cook of Kabaka Mwanga, the king of Buganda, and it remained the dish for great occasions in central Uganda: weddings, the introduction of the bride to the family, Christmas. Each guest receives their own banana-leaf parcel, closed and tied with fiber, which is opened only at the table, releasing the steam and the smell of peanut and smoke from the leaf.

Inside goes the best the house has: chicken, beef, goat or smoked fish, with onion, tomato, mushrooms and the ground peanut sauce, the same one used throughout the Great Lakes region. The leaf, passed over a flame to become pliable, seals everything, and the long steaming concentrates the juices and leaves the meat falling apart.

The side is matoke, the green cooking banana, also steamed in a leaf and mashed, which is the staple food of southern Uganda. Rice, sweet potato or boiled cassava serve equally well. Banana leaves are found in markets and in Asian and Latin stores.

Recipe card

• Origin: Buganda, Uganda
• Category: Main course, steamed in a leaf
• Difficulty: Medium
• Preparation time: 40 minutes
• Cooking time: 2 hours 30 minutes
• Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 chicken of 1.5 kg in 8 pieces (or 4 whole legs)
• 4 large banana leaves, plus strips for tying (or string)
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 200 g fresh mushrooms, sliced (optional)
• 1 cup raw peanuts, finely ground, or 3/4 cup natural peanut paste
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1 tablespoon oil
• 1 teaspoon salt (or 1 bouillon cube)
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 green chili, chopped (optional)
• Matoke (green cooking bananas), rice or sweet potato to serve

Method

1. Pass the banana leaves quickly over the stove flame until dark green and flexible. Remove the central rib and wash.
2. In a frying pan, heat the oil and brown the chicken pieces for 5 minutes per side. Set aside.
3. Mix the ground peanuts with the water until it forms a creamy sauce.
4. In a bowl, mix the onion, tomato, mushrooms, chili, salt and black pepper.
5. Line a deep bowl with a banana leaf (overlap two if small). Place 2 pieces of chicken, a quarter of the vegetable mixture and drizzle with a quarter of the peanut sauce.
6. Gather the ends of the leaf over the top, forming a closed parcel, and tie well with leaf strips or string. Repeat for the 4 parcels.
7. Place the parcels in a large steamer (or in a pot with a little water and a bed of banana leaves at the bottom so they do not touch), cover and steam on low for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, topping up the water as needed.
8. Serve each closed parcel on the plate, to be opened at the table, with matoke or rice on the side.

Tips and variations

• A well-charred leaf does not tear; a raw leaf breaks when folded.
• Beef luwombo needs 3 hours; smoked fish, 1 hour.
• Without banana leaves, wrap in parchment and foil and bake at 160 °C for 2 hours: you lose the leaf aroma, not the tenderness.
• Matoke: peel green bananas, wrap in a leaf, steam for 1 hour and mash inside the leaf with butter or plain.
• The peanut sauce thickens a lot in the steam; if you prefer it more fluid, add more water.
• Rehydrated dried mushrooms give a deeper flavor.
• The parcel reheats well in the steamer the next day, still closed.

Luwombo is a gift: a banana-leaf parcel opened at the table that releases the steam of chicken, peanut and smoke. It is Uganda's hospitality in every bundle.